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FAQsFor information on sustainability in our sector, please see Sustainable Coatings. We also have a Green Claims Guide which aims to help consumers understand the types of green claims that are made, and what to look out for. LeadPaints supplied for DIY use do not contain any added lead. In the UK, Lead-based pigments were removed from most decorative paints in the early 1960s. Paints containing lead for industrial use have been progressively phased out in Europe as suitable alternatives were developed. At a BCF council meeting in April 2013, the BCF’s Industrial Coatings Council supported legislating to create a global ban on the manufacture of all lead chromate pigments, as for the paint industry we believe there are suitable alternatives available. Under REACH, lead chromate pigments are subject to an Authorisation, limiting their use to nominated industrial applications. The BCF are a partner of the Lead Paint Alliance. The BCF's letter to the United Nations Environment Programme details the scope of the partnership. The BCF is an active member of the World Coatings Council, which seeks to address the health, safety and environmental impacts associated with the manufacture and use of coatings and printing inks, including the recognition, evaluation and control of hazards arising from the use of lead in paint. The British Coatings Federation, through the World Coatings Council, is a member of the Lead Paint Alliance (LPA), whose overall goal is to prevent children’s exposure to paints containing lead and to minimize occupational exposure to lead paint. Whilst lead hasn’t been used in decorative paints in the UK for more than 40 years, it is still being used in many developing countries around the world. The World Coatings Council established the following policy statement in 2009, which BCF fully supports: “The World Coatings Council supports the long-standing effectiveness of lead-use restrictions that are already in place in certain jurisdictions and recommends their widespread adoption by authorities not currently regulating the use of lead in paint and printing ink. Such restrictions may be accomplished through specific legislation or regulation, formal voluntary agreements, or by other means that ensure widespread and verifiable compliance.” The Health and Safety Executive has a useful leaflet on using materials containing lead when at work. Lead and You is available from the HSE website In pre-1960 buildings, the wood and metal surfaces may have been decorated with paint containing lead pigments. Please download the guides below for more information on how to remove lead safely. Lead testing kits are also available through specialist decorator centres (e.g. the Brewers network) and on-line through e.g. Ebay or Amazon. Lead in Painted Surfaces guidance for the general public Lead in Painted Surfaces guidance for professional decorators The British Coatings Federation (BCF) represents the manufacturers of 95% of the paint and coatings sold in the UK. Consumer safety is of the utmost importance to all BCF members, and BCF members do not sell lead-containing paint for use on playground equipment. The BCF recommends that any paint supplied for use on playground equipment complies with the relevant standards. The responsibility for the safety of playground equipment, however, lies with the suppliers of such equipment as they are the only ones in a position to know what has been used in its manufacture fully. Whilst there is no specific legislation for coatings on playground equipment, the safety requirements for this are specified by the British Standard BS EN 1176. This requires that, amongst other safety aspects, suppliers of playground equipment avoid the use of dangerous substances in such a way that they can cause adverse health effects to the user of the equipment. The standard draws attention to the provisions of the hazardous substances legislation in GB and EU and specifically prohibits certain materials, including lead. Therefore, paint containing lead would not be expected to be used on playground equipment supplied in the UK. The equipment may have been imported from other countries outside the UK/ EU. In such case, the importer, supplying to a UK customer, should be expected to ensure that the equipment complies with the standard (i.e. does not contain lead). Toys and playground equipment made to these standards are world-leading with regards to safety, but the import of already-coated materials, as we have seen before, are often uncontrolled. Whilst the use of any equipment containing lead should be avoided; the risk needs to be understood. Although lead is hazardous to health, it is important to realise that there is only a risk if exposure can occur. Lead is not absorbed through the skin; therefore, exposure is only likely through inhaling or eating dust or flakes or if there is the possibility of the painted surface being chewed or sucked. It may also be possible that playground equipment has been in place for many years and may have pre-dated the controls. Equipment installed before the current standards were published will have met the earlier standards, dating back through the years to the first applicable British Standard in 1959. In such case, if a lead-containing painted surface is in good condition and is already protected (over-coated) with a non-lead containing paint and is maintained in good condition, then the risk is negligible. Playground equipment should also be maintained to ensure it can continue to be used safely. Councils and playground managers should, therefore, ensure that playground equipment is monitored and maintained to prevent dust or particles of the paint (film) from flaking or chipping and to avoid earlier layers of the coating from being exposed by wear. The British Coatings Federation, as a member of the World Coatings Council (WCC), is part of a global campaign to eliminate lead from paints, through the Lead Paint Alliance of the World Health Organisation. Lead metal expands and contracts a great deal in the temperatures experienced in the UK which often leads to paint cracking and flaking. In addition, lead metal oxidises in the air, forming a layer on the surface and paint applied to this will not adhere strongly. Therefore, due to the nature of lead it is difficult to recommend a paint that will last a long time. For the reasons given, common practice is to leave lead flashing uncoated altogether or to treat it with a patination oil which will allow it to breath, keeping it supple. SustainabilityThe BCF and its members are committed to manufacturing products of benefit to society in a responsible manner and as far as possible, sustainably. Members follow the BCF Policy on Sustainable Development on a voluntary basis. The BCF and its members understand sustainability as a journey, from which learning and improvement will follow, with flexibility. You can read more about our work on sustainability here. The two biggest environmental effects associated with coatings are the emission of VOCs (see "VOCs and air quality") during application and the disposal of surplus materials. As part of the industry’s decorative coatings environmental policy, coatings suppliers are committed to doing the following:
Household decorative waste paints and varnishes can be re-used or recycled. Some Local Amenity sites accept waste paints. These can be found at www.paintcare.org.uk. You can use this site to enter your postcode to see your local waste recycling centres, along with a list of types of waste accepted, some of which will list 'paint'. The use of paints and coatings helps to protect the items they are used on. Thus, coatings contribute to better durability of such products, saving our natural resources. Coatings help extend the life of these materials, which in turn leads to saving energy in the production of such items. Coatings perform a positive environmental function in protecting and decorating surfaces. They are used to preserve timber and enable us to use less precious hardwoods and replace them with renewable-forest soft woods, which would otherwise be unsuitable for construction purposes. Coatings also save valuable metals like steel and aluminium, and the fuel needed to make them, by preventing corrosion. They can also be extremely valuable in helping moderate temperatures in hot sunny environments helping to reduce energy usage. However, the two biggest environmental effects associated with coatings are the emission of VOCs (see "VOCs and air quality") during application and the disposal of surplus materials. No decorative coating is entirely environmentally friendly and some high gloss paints, aerosols and some other specialist paints in particular need higher VOC levels for performance and, at present, there is no low VOC substitute for these. We also have a Green Claims Guide which aims to help consumers understand the types of green claims that are made, and what to look out for. Industrial paints are strictly controlled to ensure no waste enters the sewerage system. For decorative paints, a very small percentage (estimated at 1% of decorative paint by the OECD) may be washed into the sewerage system when consumers/decorators wash their brushes / rollers.
ColourColour appearance can be influenced by a number of variables. One of the most important of these is the light source. Apparently similar colours formulated using different colourants can appear very different when viewed under different lighting conditions. This is known as metamerism. Certain colours can be more prone to metamerism than others. To minimise the potential for metamerism, the aim should be to use, where possible, the same choice and combination of colourants to those used in the original colour, and no more than four colorants. Coating manufacturers rely on light boxes with specified lighting sources included, to standardise the colour comparison procedure e.g. D65 (artificial daylight), CIE Illuminant A (tungsten filament light), TL84 (fluorescent light), so ensure these are well maintained. There are a number of tools available now to help you as you begin a new decorating project. Colour choice made easy with Crown Paints' new app MyRoomPainter™ app. Set to transform the way colour is explored and selected, the new app allows tradespeople to offer instant schemes while using a smartphone or mobile tablet to show how any palette will look in situ. Available for free download, the online tool also contains a colour-matching function, a handy paint calculator and an inspirational library. See here for full press release. Further tools will be uploaded to this page as they become available and made known to the BCF. It is possible for colour differences to be perceived on the final coated substrate for a number of reasons, some of which may be unavoidable due to the coating and application technology. Colour variations can be caused by a number of factors including different substrate, film thickness, gloss level, angle of viewing, smoothness of film, application and drying method, application and paint conditions, and lighting type. Applied coatings may differ in colour from an agreed standard; in addition, there may be batch to batch variations. The magnitude of any perceptible difference between two colour tones may or may not be acceptable to the customer. A colour tolerance value nominally acceptable on paper can give rise to a distinctly appreciable colour deviation due to how humans visually perceive colour. It should be noted that coatings are industrially-manufactured products and, as such, are subject to inherent deviations owing to their industrially-manufactured raw materials and their preparation processes. Metallic and effect shades (e.g. aluminised or pearlescent finishes) are very complex with regard to colour and are can be difficult to apply and match exactly. It may be useful for a coating manufacturer and customer to set a tolerance value, either to an agreed standard colour or batch to batch variations, so as to provide a means of establishing whether a colour is acceptable or not. There are various colour tolerance systems, such as the CMC system or Qualicoat system for powder coatings. For a given colour shade, the generally permissible colour deviation of a coating under the stated laboratory conditions can be defined in relation to the standard from the following “colour footprint” on basis of x and y values (see ISO 7724-1). The x and y values describe the current colour and its saturation. Note that a ∆E value may be perceived visually in different ways for samples in different colour regions i.e. a ∆E value of one in the deep red region may be an acceptable match, whereas in the light grey region may not. Customers and suppliers may like to set colour tolerances accordingly. Use and RecyclingIdeally all nearby surfaces should be covered prior to painting. However, if paint does spill or splash, action must be taken immediately as if it is left too late there is little that can be done. Use a hard flat surface (e.g. spoon, piece of card, edge of dustpan) to scrape up as much surface paint as possible. Then with old cloth, wipe up the residual paint. If the paint is water-based (i.e. brushes can be washed out in water) clean the area well with water, repeating until clean. If the spill occurs outside, hose down with water and scrub until clean. If the paint is solvent-based, try collect and wipe off as much paint as possible as above, washing down preferably with a detergent such as washing up liquid. If the spillage is outside, wash down preferably with a detergent and rinse with water. Contaminated rags should be disposed of safely. Where solvent-based paints have been used, rags should be damped down with water and sealed in a metal container, to avoid self-combustion. For an emulsion paint (used on interior walls and ceilings), 1 litre of paint will cover approximately 12 square metres per coat. However, it depends on the type of paint being used, the condition of the surface and how it has been prepared. For a trim paint (undercoat and gloss for doors, windows etc.), 1 litre of paint will cover approximately 16 square metres per coat. Again, it depends on the type of paint being used, the condition of the surface and how it has been prepared. Paints for exterior wooden surfaces, e.g. sheds, fences, decking etc., will have lower coverage and 1 litre will cover between 3 to 6 square metres per coat depending on type of paint and condition of the wood. These are general guidelines and therefore when looking to find out how much paint to buy, it is important that you think about these factors as well as how many coats you will be applying. Decorative paint manufacturers often provide their own guidance for how much of each type of paint is required. Find out more about this and see their recommendations on our Paintcare website. Household decorative waste paints and varnishes can be re-used or recycled. Some Local Amenity sites accept waste paints. These can be found at www.paintcare.org.uk. You can use this site to enter your postcode to see your local waste recycling centres, along with a list of types of waste accepted, some of which will list 'paint'. PaintsWhat is meant by matt, gloss, silk and satin finishes and what are the typical uses of these paints? The terms: gloss, satin, silk, eggshell and matt; strictly speaking, refer to the level of sheen of a product. They have, however, also come to be associated with a type of product. Matt emulsion is suitable for ceilings and walls, including plasterboard, fibre insulating board, hardboard, brick, cement rendering, stucco, foamed polystyrene and most wallpaper. It is touch dry in about 2 hours. Further coats may be applied after about 4 hours. Brushes and rollers may be cleaned in water. Silk (emulsion), also known as satin finish, is suitable for interior walls and ceilings. It is touch dry in about 2 hours and a second coat may be applied after about 4 hours. Brushes and rollers may be cleaned in water. Traditional eggshell finishes are solvent based. Surfaces are tack-free in about 4-6 hours but should be left overnight before a second coat is applied. Brushes and rollers need to be cleaned using white spirit or brush cleaner. Water based eggshells are now available. (remove new paragraph) Water-based eggshell finishes are generally quick drying and low-odour. Brushes and rollers may be cleaned in water. Gloss is suitable for interior and exterior and is used as a protective coating in the decorating market. These are generally used on wood or metal surfaces. Gloss paints may be found which are specifically manufactured for exterior use. Although gloss paints are on the market that require no undercoat, unless otherwise stated surfaces should be suitably primed and undercoated. Traditional gloss paints are solvent-borne (solvent-based) (see "Water and Solvent-borne paints") Surfaces are tack-free in about 4-6 hours but should be left overnight before a second coat is applied. Brushes and rollers need to be cleaned using white spirit or brush cleaner. Modern water-borne (water-based) gloss paints are now also available in most DIY and trade outlets. These are quick drying and generally low-odour. Drying and overcoating times vary, but are generally shorter than for traditional solvent-borne gloss finishes. Brushes and rollers may be cleaned in water and detergent. Varnishes are also available in gloss, satin and matt versions, and as solvent or water-borne products. Their properties will be similar to the equivalent paint, although drying and re-coat times are generally shorter than for corresponding paints. Please note that the information given above is general and individual products may have different properties. You should always read the container or other information for specific details. Great care should be taken if painting asbestos-containing material (ACM) such as asbestos cement panels and corrugated sheeting. Asbestos cement can be painted but extreme care must be taken not to loosen or release any dust or fibres. In fact, painting can make the material safer by sealing the surface. If you suspect that the material is straight asbestos rather than asbestos cement, do not touch – call in experts. Safety and Preparation When painting ACM you must minimise the risk of releasing fibres that can become airborne. To ensure you protect yourself, your family and those around you (including neighbours and pets) from exposure to potentially dangerous fibres, there are some basic safety rules you should follow:
The Health and Safety Executive has guidance on painting and cleaning asbestos-containing materials at www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos/essentials/:
Painting Apply the paint, preferably by low-pressure spray or roller, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Panel doors should be painted in the following order: A. Top edge of door. B. Side edges of door. C. Panel moulding. D. Panel area. E. Vertical areas between panels. F. Top horizontal areas over panels. G. Middle horizontal areas between panels. H. Bottom horizontal areas under panels. I. Long vertical on hinge side of door. J. Long vertical on handle side of door. Caution should be taken to prevent any runs or drips during the painting of the door, especially on the bottom edges of the panels. Finally paint the door frame. For more detail: http://diydata.com/decorating/painting-doors/painting-panel-doors.php The term 'microporous' is often applied to specialist paints and stains and describes a coating that acts as a barrier to liquid water, but allows water vapour to pass through. The implication being that there is something special about the coating that keeps rainwater out of the substrate, but allows moisture that has found its way into the substrate escape as a vapour. Although almost all coatings will act as a barrier to liquid water, it is not correct to imply that coatings can be made so that moisture vapour can only travel through them in one direction. Moisture vapour will be able to pass through a coating equally well in either direction: from places where there is more moisture, to places where there is less moisture. The rate at which moisture passes through a coating is controlled by the permeability of the coating, the moisture content gradient, the film thickness, and the temperature. Microporosity is therefore not some miracle technology. Paints and varnishes are made up of 4 types of components:
The solvent may be an organic solvent or it may be water. The binder may be dissolved in the solvent, as in a solvent-based gloss paint. Alternatively, the binder may be in the form of an emulsion suspended in water. The terms solvent-based or water-based are not, strictly speaking, accurate. The coating is not `based’ on water or solvent, but is either dissolved or suspended in it. The terms `water-borne’ and `solvent-borne’ are more accurate descriptions. Binder can be based on natural oils, such as soya bean oil, which reacts with the oxygen in the air to form a tough durable film. Solvent-borne products typically contain high levels of Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) and were traditionally for use on wood and metal surfaces, giving a glossy finish but associated with longer drying times and a strong smell. However, water-borne products have typically low levels of VOC and have changed significantly in recent years, with many companies offering a water-borne paint equivalent to a solvent-borne option. The benefits of a water-borne product includes quicker drying times, less smell, and easier cleaning up with brushes and rollers being able to be rinsed with water rather than white spirit (or other proprietary brush cleaners), making the whole decorating process more environmentally friendly. Washing solvent-borne paint from brushes required the use of white spirit or solvent-borne brush cleaners, which in themselves release VOCs when used, and are difficult to dispose of because of their hazardous nature. Therefore, using water-borne paints, where brushes can be washed in soapy water, can further reduce the environmental impact of decorating. The BCF has produced an information bulletin on this topic. Read it here. All hazardous products (not just paints) must be labelled to indicate their hazards. The Classification, Labelling and Packaging Regulation, known as CLP is based on a UN model called the Globally Harmonised System (GHS). Although this establishes some standards, there are options within these. There is also the ability to further add labelling options which means that labels in different countries following the principle of GHS cannot be assumed to comply with UK CLP. The labelling information may be given as:
For more information on CLP, please visit the HSE website. As the trade association representing the vehicle refinish paint manufacturers in the UK, the British Coatings Federation is campaigning to combat illegal sales of non-compliant solvent-based basecoats to repair cars, which are in breach of the VOC regulations. In April 2016, a letter was sent to distributors/ bodyshops reminding them of the VOC Paint Product Directive which has now been in place for over ten years. A mystery shopping campaign exercise had also been launched, with one in four VR distributors being visited during 2016 and 2017. See more information here. Asbestos has not been used in decorative coatings for many decades. However, it may be present in some older films and textured coatings. Under no circumstances, sand or chip off, or otherwise disturb, the coating, as this will release asbestos fibres. Paints are not usually tested on animals. However, the chemical substances that are used to make the paint may have been tested on animals due to regulatory requirements. Paints are complex mixtures of substances. Typically manufacturers will make hundreds or thousands of products. To ascribe the hazards to a product, manufacturers typically follow calculation rules in a legislation known as the Classification, Labelling and Packaging Regulations (CLP). These rules allow manufacturers to take known hazard outcomes of the individual substances in all of the raw materials they purchase and calculate an answer based on logic defined in the legislation. It allows them to define any potential hazards for customers avoiding the need for any animal testing of paints. Under the REACH Regulation the substances in all the raw materials have to be registered. Before use, conditions for approval are dependant on test data for a defined set of Human Health and Environmental categories. These are based on a United Nations set of criteria. Some of these tests may involve tests on animals. Without this test data the substance would not be approved for use. Please see our Green Claims Guide here. Decorative paint manufacturers in the UK have worked on the issue of reducing VOCs in their paints without compromising performance for at least the last 30 years. One of the key requirements of paint is that it flows out once it is applied to a wall or ceiling and forms a smooth regular paint film, which ensures good durability and resistance properties. This flowing out (coalescing) of the paint is aided by the use of VOCs that may be included in paint formulations. Many modern decorative paints, however, contain no added VOCs. When VOC legislation was introduced in the UK and across Europe many years ago, the industry responded to the challenge to maintain the required performance of their paint whilst meeting the legal requirements. The results of their efforts are what we have today is VOC-compliant paints for decorating walls and ceilings that are durable and resistant, and meet the needs of the construction industry, whilst also meeting the legislation. It would therefore not be correct to state that the current low VOC paints are at all inferior to higher VOC paints with regards to durability. Volatile Organic Compounds are materials which evaporate readily from commonly occurring sources such as vehicle exhausts, cleaning agents, furniture polish and fabric softeners. These also include solvents used in coatings, as well as thinners and brush cleaners. In the presence of sunlight, these VOCs can react with nitrogen oxides to create ground level ozone and photochemical smogs. These in turn can contribute to pollution of the atmosphere. The UK government and the coatings industry are committed to reducing VOC emissions under international conventions. Although the impact of household coatings on atmospheric pollution is very small (less than 2% of the total amount of VOCs emitted), manufacturers believe the amount of VOCs in decorative coatings should be reduced and consumers given the choice of using lower VOC-containing products. Coatings suppliers have introduced a labelling system to inform you of the VOC content of each decorative coating product – a 6-band classification shows the VOC content as Trace; Minimal; Low; Medium; High or Very High. MIT (methylisothiazolinone) is a preservative and is used in many water-borne paints to give them the shelf-life required for the paint to be transported and stored for sale and use. MIT is also used in many other consumer goods such as cosmetics, household cleaning products and personal care products. MIT has to be declared by manufacturers when it is present at 0.0015% (15 parts per million); all products containing more than 15ppm of MIT will be labelled with the H317 phrase ‘May cause an allergic skin reaction’, the Signal Word ‘Warning’ and the Exclamation Mark Health Hazard symbol, along with a number of Precautionary Statements. A very small percentage of the population already sensitised to MIT can suffer an allergic reaction to MIT in paint, and we would advise that they do not apply such products themselves. We would recommend that consumers always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for the safe use of paint products. Anyone developing symptoms of an allergic reaction should seek the advice of a medical expert. (Decorative: Trade and DIY painting only) Preparation required varies according to the surface to be painted but note that preparation is the key to a successful outcome of any decorating task and it may well take longer than the painting of the area itself. New plaster should always be allowed to dry thoroughly before it is decorated, unless you are using an emulsion paint specifically for new plaster. As the plaster dries it will change colour from dark to pale pink, and when it is dry any solids which appear on the plaster should be removed (a cloth such as hessian is ideal for this). Before applying the first coat of emulsion, a primer is required and usually the emulsion can be diluted (as per the manufacturers’ instructions) to act as a primer. If old plaster is clean, dry and sound, no special preparation is required. However if the surface shows evidence of old distemper residue or is powdery, it should be sealed with a stabilising solution. Surfaces previously finished in matt emulsion paint and in sound condition merely require washing with a sugar soap solution which is thoroughly rinsed off. Silk or satin emulsion paints and gloss and traditional eggshell finishes, in addition, will require wet rubbing down to provide a key for the new paint. With any of the above surfaces, any loose or flaking paint should be removed and sanded and noticeable cracks should be made good, by use of a filler, and the area primed before painting. To prepare wood, lightly abrade the surface using a dry sandpaper, rubbing in the direction of the grain. Dust off with a damp rag and allow to dry. Remember to take adequate precautions when preparing surfaces, especially in relation to dust inhalation. Exterior wood, in particular, might be rotting or damp in which case it will need to be repaired and dried out prior to any painting. When painting over existing wallpaper, a successful finish will only be obtained if the paper is sound and adhering firmly, especially at the edges and joins. If the wallpaper is damaged or peeling or loose in any way it is recommended that it is removed. However this might lead to extra work due to the condition of the walls which might have crumbling or damaged plaster. If the wallpaper is in good sound condition it will need to be wiped clean prior to painting. Vinyl coated wallpaper will require scoring and a primer before application of an emulsion paint to ensure good adhesion. If painting over dark coloured wallpaper, the colours (particularly reds) are liable to bleed and should be treated with a thin coating of stain sealer first. Metallic inks will eventually cause a discolouration of the paint film due to dirt retention on the colder metallic area. In 2010 the new solvent emission limits (VOC or Volatile Organic Compounds) for all decorative coatings for wood and metal came into force and manufacturers adjusted their formulations to comply with the European Regulations. This resulted in lower solvent products coming onto the market. There were complaints at the time that some of these new solvent-borne paints for wood and metal were more prone to discolouration. This discolouration was seen to occur in certain instances, such as in low levels of natural daylight or where fumes from other materials (e.g. carpet adhesives, floor levelling compounds) were present and this was of concern to manufacturers as this was not displayed during the development of these new coatings. Paint manufacturers addressed the problem at the time by reformulating the impacted paints and are now confident that the performance and finish of all these paints are comparable to the versions that were produced prior to the legislation changes coming into effect. All solvent-based paints for wood and metal discolour over time to some degree. Customers who want whiteness which will not discolour should use a water-based paint. If the surface to be painted has been well prepared (see "Surface Preparation”) and paint is applied as directed, it is likely that repainting will not be necessary for several years. Coatings subjected to extreme weather conditions may need more frequent attention. However, if a surface has not been sufficiently prepared, some problems may occur: Cracking occurs when the top coat of paint is unable to expand to the same degree as the previous coating. This occurs commonly when an undercoat has not been given sufficient time to dry, or indeed if a paint is encouraged to dry too quickly, for example by increasing the temperature in a room or if decorating exterior surfaces in excessive heat. Cracking will also occur if wallpaper adhesive is allowed to dry on new paintwork. Mould can appear as multi-coloured spots or patches, and growth of mould is encouraged by dampness and poor ventilation. It may also appear where paint has been applied to wallcoverings laid using unprotected paste – all wallpaper adhesives now contain fungicides to minimise the risk of mould growth. It is certainly not worth simply painting over any mould patches as the patches will reappear. The cause of the dampness needs to be found and treated, and then sterilised either using a fungicidal solution or a 3:1 mixture of water and household bleach. It is then important to leave the area for at least a week to check for any reappearance of mould before repainting. It is then advisable to coat with a paint containing a fungicide. Remember to avoid splashes of fungicide on the skin and accidental consumption by children and animals. Specialist products are available to treat the effects of damp. These act as a barrier to limit the risk of new decoration being spoilt. Peeling or flaking can occur when the underlying surface has not been sufficiently prepared (see "How do I prepare the surface prior to painting?"), if dust or dirt particles remain on the surface or if the surface is still damp or unstable, or if rust is forming under the paint surface. As with cissing (see below), peeling may also occur if paint has been applied on a very shiny surface. Shiny surfaces may be lightly sanded prior to application of paint. Chalking is the appearance of a powdery deposit on the surface of dry paint. It occurs most commonly when paints manufactured for use on interior surfaces are used on exterior surfaces, when paints have been over-thinned causing a deficiency in binder, or when paints have been applied before a surface has been sufficiently sealed, e.g. on new plaster. Remember to always choose the correct paint for the surface being painted and to always follow the instructions on the tin. Blistering is when a paint or varnish forms bubbles on the surface. This could be due to too much paint being applied in one go, moisture trapped in the underlying plaster, using non-heat-resistant paints near sources of extreme heat. Blistering can also occur if an underlying wallpaper has not been hung using sufficient adhesive as the addition of a coat of paint could cause it to ‘bubble’ (remember though that if painting over lining paper, blistering that appears within a few minutes of painting usually flattens out during the drying process). To rectify, the blistered paint must be removed, and the surface made clean and dry prior to repainting with an appropriate paint, either one that is permeable (where damp) or heat-resistant if required. Cissing is when the paint fails to form a continuous film on the surface, peeling back when it is applied leaving small round bare patches. This is due to painting either a greasy or oily surface, or painting very smooth and shiny surfaces. It can occur when emulsion paint is applied over oil-based paints, regardless of gloss. The surface should be thoroughly washed with sugar soap and rinsed, and shiny surfaces may be sanded lightly prior to applying paint. Please note that as a trade body representing the manufacturers of paints and coatings, our expertise is in providing technical and regulatory advice to the manufacturers (for instance on the formulation of their coatings). We don’t have the competence to provide technical advice on how to solve technical challenges around paint repairs/paint problems. We’d suggest contacting the Painting and Decorating Association, who may be able to help provide some guidance, and/or advise of a professional painter/decorator in your area. If you have a complaint about a specific paint that you’ve used, please visit the Help desk support for non members. ‘Wall odour’ is a problem that occasionally occurs when an unpleasant ‘tom cat’ like smell is noticed a few days or more after painting. There have been occasional reports of this effect over several years from the UK, Europe, USA and Australia, affecting a very small number of users. The BCF has been in discussion with industry experts about the problem. Research indicates that it is likely to have been caused by certain ingredients in the freshly dried paint reacting with ozone in the air, especially on hot sunny days when windows are often open, this releases very low levels of some extremely smelly materials, which are very similar to cat pheromones, hence the tom cat odour. In view of our knowledge of the constituents of paint and the cause of the odour and the levels involved, we are confident that there are no health and safety risks. The materials involved do produce an extremely strong smell, even at very low levels, hence people’s alarm. It can be prevented or rectified by applying an alkali resisting sealer to the wall before painting. Please consult with the manufacturer of the paint that you purchased for more advice on this. If an independent on-site inspection is required, the following organisations may help in providing this service; Independent test houses NOTE: A full list of accredited laboratories, inspection and certification bodies can be found by going to www.ukas.com Find a list of testing companies here. A number of Associate members provide SDS and labelling authoring - the full list together with contact details can be found here by scrolling to 'Directory' at the bottom of the page. There are many other companies providing chemical management software especially in relation to SDS and labelling authoring. As a useful starting point, there is a guide from Chemical Watch, now called Enhesa which is free of charge and available from here: Chemicals Management Software Guide (chemicalwatch.com). There will also be other software providers that you can use, and an online search will be able to provide you with some more companies. WallpaperWallpaper is simply the most effective way to change the nature of a room. Wallpaper sets the mood and atmosphere by providing instant colour, and design through pattern & texture. Many of the latest wallpapers are easy to hang, particularly paste the wall & peel & stick technologies, which helps the inexperienced decorator to create a professional look quickly & easily. What paint would you recommend for my wallpaper? If your wallpaper states it is paintable then we would advise to use a good quality matt emulsion paint and allow to dry before applying other finishes, i.e. silk emulsion or satin/gloss oil paints and always test on a small piece prior to emulsioning. What paste would you recommend for my wallpaper? Most commercially available pastes are of equal quality, but please read manufacturer’s instructions carefully before use. Also refer to the different manufacturer’s “How to hang Wallpaper” section for information on paste. What type of wallpaper can I use in a bathroom? A vinyl wallpaper is suitable for use in the bathroom, although no wallpaper is recommended for use in direct contact with water (such as to line a shower). Vinyl papers resist moisture and are splash-proof. Look for ranges specifically designed for Kitchen and Bathrooms. The key for successful lasting wallpaper in a bathroom or other humid environments is ensuring good quality joins which are tightly pushed together & full adhesion between the paper & wall surfaces. What type of wallpaper can I use in the Kitchen? A vinyl wallpaper is suitable for use in the kitchen, although no wallpaper is recommended for use in direct contact with water or within immediate proximity to oven/hobs. Vinyl papers resist moisture and are splash-proof. Look for ranges specifically designed for Kitchen and Bathrooms with extra washable or scrubbable symbols on labels. How can I find a suitable decorator? Websites such as the Painting Decorating Association (https://paintingdecoratingassociation.co.uk/) can provide information on decorators in your local area. Wallcovering labels carry a variety of symbols which tell you a great deal about their performance – as long as you know what the symbols mean. These symbols are approved by the BSi (British Standards Institute). Cleanability of Wallcoverings
Spongeable (at time of hanging) The British standard defines a “spongeable” wallcovering as one “from which adhesive may be wiped from the surface of the paper with a damp cloth or sponge at the time of hanging, without causing visible damage, providing it is done while the adhesive is still damp”. There’s a common misconception that it means “can be sponged to remove marks” but it doesn’t.
Washable A wallcovering from which dirt and most domestic water-based stains may be cleaned carefully with a damp or wet sponge or cloth and soapy water.
Extra Washable A wallcovering from which dirt and some domestic water-based stains may be cleaned carefully with a damp sponge or cloth and soapy water. Oil, fats, and solvent based satins are not expected to be removable, but some greasy stains can be removed if action is taken immediately.
Scrubbable A wallcovering with superior cleanability form which dirt and most domestic water-based stains may be cleaned with a sponge, cloth or soft brush and a mild detergent or a mild abrasive. Oils, fats, and certain solvent-based stains can also be removed if tackled immediately. In addition, there will be a number of other symbols on your wallcovering label, please see below some of the most common & what they are trying to tell you. Voluntary Timber Certification symbols demonstrates the product is made with materials from well-managed forests and/or recycled sources.
VOC Emissions symbols demonstrate product performance in relation to indoor air quality.
The CE Mark &/or UKCA Mark demonstrates product performance in relation to fire performance & selected chemical contents.
Recycling Symbols provide information in relation to packaging recyclability, these can vary country to country.
Design Repeat This is the distance before the same part of the design is reproduced on the wallpaper. The distance can vary – on some designs it may be as much as a metre. A long pattern repeat will probably increase the number of rolls needed for the room – ensure you take this into account when estimating the number of rolls. It is common practice to order a roll more than you need for unforeseen contingencies.
Free Match (aka Random Match) Also known as “random match” this term refers to a wallcovering design with no apparent pattern repeat which therefore does not need pattern matching. This also applies to plain and vertical stripe designs. Because the need for pattern matching is eliminated, free match papers are easy to hang.
Straight Match Pattern Match refers to how the pattern on the wallpaper matches from side to side. “Straight match” is where the pattern match on the right hand side is on the same horizontal line as the left hand side. It is important to understands this when ordering rolls – and especially before cutting lengths!
Offset Match (aka Half Drop or Drop Match) “Half drop” or “offset match” is where the design doesn’t fall on the same horizontal line, but somewhere else in the pattern repeat. This is the most complex type of match, to minimise the potential for waste.
Reverse Alternate Lengths (aka Reverse Hang) A technique used mostly when hanging free match contract wallcoverings, to avoid edge to edge shading. Alternate lengths are reversed before hanging. Everybody has their own decorating style and preference, so there is no right or wrong type of wallpaper. However, there are some common aspects to
hanging different types - these are summarised in this section. We would always recommend to see specific instructions provided by manufacturer
via wallpaper label or website. Starting Checklist:
Surface Preparation Ideally surfaces need to be smooth, dry, clean, firm, neutral & consistent in colour. New plaster or other absorbent surfaces should be sized or should be allowed to dry for 5-6 weeks and be clean before application. Standard General Advice/Warnings
Why can't the 'Paste-the-wall' method be used for traditional papers? Most traditional wallpapers expand when wet, which means they must be left to soak before hanging. Paste the wall products have a specially developed backing which does not expand, allowing it to be hung dry. . . straight from the roll.
How much quicker and easier is 'Paste-the-wall' to hang? Most people reckon that papering straight from the roll cuts decorating time by about a half. . . and because the pasting table process is eliminated, it's a lot cleaner and less messy too. Do I need a pasting table to hang 'Paste-the-wall' product? No - unless you find a flat surface helps when you're measuring out your lengths prior to hanging. How much of the wall should I paste, when hanging 'Paste-the-wall' product? Don't paste the entire wall before starting to hang your wallpaper. Simply paste one section of the wall at a time so that the paste doesn't dry out. Allow some overlap. What if I've never done any wallpapering before and I am going to use a 'Paste-the-wall' product? You couldn't find a better paper to learn on! Wallpaper is easier to work with when dry - it weighs less, for instance, which means there's less chance of it tearing. Can I paste the back of 'Paste-the-wall' wallpaper? If you find it easier to hang conventionally then you can paste the product. It's still quicker as there is no 'soaking time'. Would I be able to see the paste on the wall, when hanging 'Paste-the-wall' wallpaper? In normal lighting conditions the paste and 'wet area' should be visible. How quickly do I need to hang the wallpaper, when hanging 'Paste-the-wall' wallpapers - will the paste dry too fast? Paste as you need to hang. Dependent on heating conditions, you will have plenty of time to hang the roll. Will 'Paste-the-wall' wallpapers slide enough, i.e. to match pattern, etc. ? The product slides into place easily. Will the 'Paste-the-wall' process work when pasting on top of lining paper? Yes. Some bubbling to the lining paper may occur when it is pasted, this is normal, but the decorated wall will dry flat. Draw a straight vertical line using your level, 20 inches (50cm) from the left-hand side of your wall, unless hanging a feature wall, where you should start in the centre to ensure symmetry especially on large scale designs. This is a guide for your first length/strip, so it’s important for it to be straight. Peel about 30cm of the backing away. Apply the front sheet to the top of the wall, allowing a bit of excess to overlap the ceiling. Align the right side of the length/strip to your mark & press to the smooth, clean, dry wall. Working from top to bottom, pull the backing away as you evenly press the paper to the wall. Do not stretch the material. Remove the sheet to reposition if needed. Use a smoother to push out any air bubbles from the centre outwards. Applying moderate pressure use the smoother over the full surface area of the product to ensure firm adhesion to the wall. Trim along the top & bottom of the length/strip using a straight edge & sharp utility knife. Apply the next strip/length the same way, matching the pattern to the first strip/length. If you are having difficulty with an uneven corner, try cutting into the corner rather than wrapping from one wall to the next. What if I've never done any wallpapering before and I am going to use a Peel & Stick product? It is good to think of peel & stick wallpaper as a large sticker, and as such it is perfect for a complete beginner to wallpapering. Peel & stick wallpaper is easier to work with when only small sections of the backing paper is removed at a time. What are the benefits of Peel & Stick products? One of the key benefits is because there is no wet paste the hanging process is a lot cleaner & less messy.
Strippable Paste the wall products are strippable, meaning the whole wallcovering can be removed from the wall dry in one or more substantial pieces by pulling it away from the wall. Top Tip: If extra strong or additional paste has been used it may be advisable to wet the wallpaper to allow “wet strippable” removal in large substantial pieces.
Peelable Most traditional wallpapers today are peelable, meaning you can lift a corner at the base and peel upwards. This leaves a backing layer on the wall which can be soaked and removed or used as a lining for subsequent re-decoration (Please note this should only be done if the adhesion between the backing paper & wall is sound) Peelable wallcoverings are usually vinyls; the vinyl top surface and the backing paper separate easily.
Wet removable A wallpaper that can be removed by soaking with water or liquid wallpaper stripper or by steaming it & then scraping off the soaked material. Colourfastness to Light (aka Light Fastness or Colour Fastness) Colour Fastness sometimes called “Light Fastness” refers to the ability of a paper or ink to resist ultraviolet in sunlight, and thus reduce the risk of colours fading. The modern inks used in wallcoverings have additives to reduce fading in sunlight.
Moderate colour fastness to light
Satisfactory colour fastness to light
Good colour fastness to light
Very Good colour fastness to light
Impact Resistant A heavy-duty wallcovering which has the ability to maintain its surface intact under the effect of impact. If the surface to be papered has been well prepared and the wallpaper is applied as directed, it is likely that redecorating will not be necessary for several years. Wallpapers subjected to extreme conditions such as humidity or temperature may need more frequent attention. Bubbling Bubbles in a wallcovering may be caused by several things. One is trapped air, as a result of either not using enough paste, or failing to smooth the paper down properly. Another is continued expansion of the paper after hanging (traditional wallpaper), usually caused by insufficient soaking – check the roll label instructions for the right soaking time. The third cause is too much paste, or failing to mix the paste properly, so that the bubble is a bubble of paste rather than a bubble of air. Visible Joins The standard paperhanging joint is called a Butt Join, with the edges of the paper lightly touching, but not overlapping. If a join hasn’t been tightly “butted” together when drying the paper may relax back & create a visible join, especially on darker designs. It is important to push joints together during hanging & to ensure when brushing the paper down the joints aren’t moved. Top Tips: Use a seam roller where possible & turn off radiators during & for 24hours after hanging to allow natural gradually drying. Edge Colouring is a technique which can be used to reduce the risk of white edge fibres showing when hanging dark coloured wallpapers: the edges of the roll are coloured in a shade similar to the printed face. Some specialist papers are already edge coloured; if they aren’t, the edges can be coloured – carefully – with a coloured pencil or felt tip pen. Edge Curl A problem where the edges of the wallpaper will not adhere to the wall and persistently lift away from the surface. Possible causes include not using enough paste, not pasting the edges properly, or failing to size a porous wall properly. If all else fails, use a border adhesive or overlap adhesive, and apply pressure to the curled edge until the adhesive has taken. Edge curl also sometimes occurs on paper that has just been pasted – but it usually disappears once the paper has been left to soak.
Top Tip: Paste each length in the order shown & book half the strip after pasting sections 1, 2 & 3by loosely folding so the pasted surfaces are touching & edges are aligned. Repeat this process after pasting sections 4 & 5. This gives the paper the minimum about of time to curl at the edging during the hanging process. Estimating Number of Rolls To estimate how many rolls are needed for a room, there are a number of online wallpaper calculators available. Remember that a long pattern repeat may mean more paper is needed – and it’s better to buy too many rolls than too few, because it may not be possible to match the batch number subsequently. Left over wallpaper is a perfect material for crafting & upcycling projects around the home. Share your projects using leftover wallpaper using #SustainableWallcoverings! Industrial CoatingsSee our web page here to find out about all the different types of Industrial Coatings. There has been a long tradition for boat owners to paint their own vessels, and in today’s health and safety conscious society, it is important to know that antifouling (AF) paints are being used properly, with appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). The Health and Safety Executive rightly have to make risk assessments about the impact on human health and the environment when it comes to AF paints. With this in mind, the BCF Marine Coatings Group launched a survey in September 2015 to establish the DIY use of AF paints and the results of that survey, completed by over 2,400 boat owners, are summarised in the report linked below. The survey was created and promoted by a fantastic collaboration of paint and marine trade associations, boating magazines and journals, marinas and chandlers. Find more information here. InksMembers of the BCF are also members of EuPIA which is the European Printing Ink Association. EuPIA has developed an Exclusion Policy* which bans participating member companies from using any raw material which is toxic or carcinogenic etc, and also bans some other things like the heavy metals, including lead, mercury and arsenic. This list applies to all inks, not just those being used on food packaging. The EuPIA Exclusion Policy for Printing Inks and Related Products, and its predecessor, the Exclusion List, has had a tremendous value for the printing ink industry, the printers/convertors, brand owners and consumers as it contributes to the safety of inks used across Europe. In short, the policy is about excluding hazardous chemical substances from the manufacture of printing inks which have a serious adverse effect on human health. Whilst the dried ink is unlikely to be hazardous if sourced from a BCF member, certain inks, in their liquid form, may be flammable or potentially irritant (e.g. solvent-borne or energy curing inks). Advice on the safe use of these will be given to the printer in the safety data sheet. *The Exclusion Policy is managed by the European Printing Ink Association, EuPIA. More details and a link to the Exclusion Policy are available here. There is no specific regulation in the EU or UK on printing inks in food packaging. However, the ‘framework regulation’ (EC) No 1935/2004 does apply, and requires that food contact materials and articles - in their finished state - must not transfer any components to the packed foodstuff in quantities which could endanger human health, or bring about an unacceptable change in the composition, or a deterioration in organoleptic properties. It should be noted that this regulation was transferred to UK law after Brexit, so it still applies in the UK as well. Inks which have been printed on the outside (non-food-contact side) of the package may be one source of substances with the potential to ‘migrate’ (transfer into the food). To allow the assessment of the levels of potential migration from printed food packaging, EuPIA members may supply converters with a Statement of Composition (SOC) for a printing ink. This SOC will list those substances with the potential to migrate along with the applicable migration limits and the amount of that substance in the print. Accordingly, this information is designed to meet the requirements of the Plastics Regulation that members of the packaging chain must supply “Adequate Information” to allow other members to meet their legal obligations. EuPIA member companies (of which all BCF members are automatically part) have the opportunity to sign a Compliance Commitment related to the manufacture and supply of food packaging inks. The carbon footprint of printing inks has been calculated at less than 1% of that for the final printed product. ENDS magazine (Environmental Data Services, a respected environmental periodical) recently did a full life-cycle analysis of its magazine production and concluded that the environmental impact from the ink was negligible and not worth taking into account. Work which has been carried out to date has found that a printing ink - regardless of its composition - makes a very small contribution to the carbon footprint of consumer products. For example, specific calculations carried out by the German Printing and Media Industries Federation concluded that the contribution of the printing ink to the carbon footprint of a printed article is between 1 and 3% of the total carbon footprint of a printed article. (The variation depends mainly on two factors: the types of printing inks and printing processes and the number of articles printed.) In addition, ENDS magazine (Environmental Data Services - a respected environmental periodical) have performed a full life-cycle analysis of its magazine production and concluded that the environmental impact from the ink was negligible. However, BCF members are aware of the environmental issues in regard to the manufacture of printing inks and continue to assess methods of reducing any adverse impact on the environment, as well as improving the sustainability aspects. Further information can be found on the European Printing Inks Association’s (EuPIA) Sustainability page here. |